How to make a do-it-yourself rabbitry drawings. Convenient cages for rabbits: do it yourself. Depending on the size of the rabbits

Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, subsistence farming does not lose its relevance to this day. The most profitable and cost effective way domestic livestock is breeding rabbits. But, like any living creature, the rabbit must have its own comfortable living corner. These animals are kept in special cages placed in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a rabbit cage.

Arrangement of the cell

Such a process will not seem time-consuming if all the conditions for breeding rabbits are maintained. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, it is first necessary to determine the size of the cages for the rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one crate will not be enough for all. You need to plan at least three pieces. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.

Space required for 1 head

Detailed drawing showing even the smallest details structures will provide you with a reliable building.

There are a lot of ways of constructing how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort for the animals, others are convenient for the owner in terms of financial costs. Each breeder chooses the best optionbased on their capabilities. But, nevertheless, they often make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any construction supermarket, but you can rummage among your old stocks. Consider the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands.

Reticulated rabbitry

There are many varieties of such stands, the following structures have proven themselves best of all:

• unsupported cage with supporting struts;
• frame cells.

Self-made galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire will serve for the manufacture of such structures. The tops and side sections of the cells will be sufficient with a grid with links of 25x50 mm. The lower part provides for the use of small cells - in order to avoid slipping of the paws of fluffy animals. Once you have determined the dimensions, you can start building.

In our case, the cage will be an externally mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.

Step by step manufacturing

The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a do-it-yourself rabbit cage, you need to cut out certain details of the sides, based on the size.

A pre-made template will help create the same size front and back, which are neatly cut from the mesh roll. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching along their perimeter.

1. The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a mesh with a fine mesh will serve as the base of the floor.
2. Initially, the walls are formed by the fasteners.
3. Next, the base of the cell is established. At the same time, the netting of the front part of the very first cell is removed. There will be a pallet for animal waste.
4. Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several of them.
5. The doors are also made with mesh and fastened with fasteners.
6. A mesh ceiling is laid on top of the resulting box.
7. The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the dimensional drawings are accurate and exceed the cage itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.

Step by step photo instructions

The main work has been done, now you need to attach the finished structures to the wall with metal parts and put stops to prevent the cage from wobbling when the animals move. The sides and back are covered with plywood sheets, which are cut in relation to the dimensions of the frame, and not the dimensions of the mesh formations. Now it remains to fill the place of detention with accessories necessary for the life of rabbits: feeders, drinkers, a pallet, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a rabbit cage with a netting method.

The rabbitry of Mikhailov

Making cages for rabbits must be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such a development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a famous rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have an accessible and understandable guide to the stages of building their own at home.

Mikhailov's cage is made according to the already developed drawing projects.

The essence of his technique consists in dividing the cell into three parts: top, bottom and support section, each of which has its own functional accessory. So, the upper part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored before being removed. The base frame is at the same time the fixing base. And the compartments of Mikhailov's cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and fodder, move out a little.

Thanks to this scheme of the place of detention, Mikhailov's rabbitry requires minimal care - about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outdoors all year round.

The housings are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of such rooms for rabbits, differing in appearance, therefore, we highlight the main features of the ratio of cell sizes according to the Mikhailov method:

• the total area of \u200b\u200bone section, accommodating a couple of animals, fluctuates within 1.4 sq. m .;
• the height of the cage is 2.1 m, the width is 2.4 m;
• each section of the cell is constructed 0.6 m wide and 0.7 m high;
• mother liquors are 0.4 m long, 0.35 m wide, the waste collection cone can be of any size.

The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. supporting structure fixing elements. This achieves the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.

Rabbit farm Zolotukhin

One of the most popular today are cages for rabbits, Zolotukhin N.I., a man who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions for keeping animals at home closer to the natural features of their life. This is how Zolotukhin's cage, economical and fairly simple to create, appeared.

This design saves space, does not require daily cleaning, making it easier for breeders to care for.

Let's highlight the main features of N. Zolotukhin's design option:

1. The floor is made using flat slate or plywood. The net is only fixed in the floor of the back cover. The pallet is not provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. Most of the feces are collected there. The rest of the feces are scattered by rabbits on the floor.
2. The structure has a complex structure, including six compartments located on floors. Each higher floor is displaced relative to the floor adjacent to the bottom, aligning with the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side connecting the floors is a kind of slope.
3. The mother is completely absent. In cold weather, a special shelter is additionally placed for the rabbit and rabbits.

Cleaning is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.

Rabbit cage, 2 tiers

The use of multi-storey structures for rabbits at home to this day is the most compact and convenient option for breeding rabbits. There is nothing easier how to build do-it-yourself cages for rabbits in 2 tiers.

Assembly diagram

Experienced hosts designed special instruction, the guidance of which contains the following provisions:

• wooden blocks are connected, forming four rectangular bases;
• using a mesh with small cells, make the floor, then install the side walls;
• since the first floor contains trays for feces, for the convenience of removing them, the floor is made pitched;
• trays for domestic rabbits are prepared using a bar. The second floor under its base must have a solid plywood sheet to prevent contamination from entering the first floor;
• the ceiling is made at the last moment with the help of waterproof materials.

To support the two floors, a reliable frame is designed. To correctly carry out such a design of a rabbit cage, drawings must always be kept at hand. Two-tier cages for rabbits have a "P"-shaped construction planning rule, represented by standard blocks fastened to each other with self-tapping screws.

It is with such simple techniques that you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which, in terms of their reliability and comfort, will not be inferior to factory designs.

Breeding rabbits requires patience and knowledge of their physiology. Without this, it will not be possible to achieve results. In winter, rabbits feel better in a specially designated heated room called a rabbitry. For home breeding, a small one is suitable.

What should be a rabbitry

For rabbits to feel normal, not sick, grow well and reproduce quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding on the conditions of detention, in poor conditions they often get sick. To prevent this from happening, they need the following conditions:

• The optimum temperature is 14-16 ° C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place away from heaters, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is disadvantageous. But a gradual rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sudden changes. From all this it follows that it is necessary to build an insulated rabbitry, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning. The most justified rabbitries built on, with insulation mineral wool (thickness is calculated depending on the region). No less attention should be paid to floor and ceiling insulation. The roofing material can be without insulation, it must provide protection against moisture. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the floor. The cheapest way is to pour a layer of expanded clay on the ceiling, apply a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then you can even throw dead leaves on the dried clay - for additional thermal insulation.

  

• Rabbits are demanding of air humidity - it is necessary to maintain 60-75%.
• Drafts negatively affect the health of rabbits. This is another argument in favor of frame structures - with competent construction, there should be no drafts. However, the rabbitry must be ventilated because they need fresh air, and the gases that come from the urine and feces of rabbits must also be removed. But the speed of air movement should not be more than 0.3 m / s. Usually, an inlet is made, taken away by a movable grate at floor level in one corner of the rabbitry and an exhaust pipe under the ceiling in another. A damper can be placed in the chimney. With the help of a movable grate and a gate, the air speed in the rabbitry can be adjusted depending on weather conditions. If natural ventilation is not enough, fans are installed in the exhaust or supply pipe with the ability to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades (there should be several modes).
• The second factor that affects the state of the atmosphere in the rabbitry is the regularity of harvesting and the construction of the cages. About cages - a little lower, and here - about cleaning. It should be regular - at least 2-3 times a week. The main indicator is the presence or absence of a strong odor.
• In order to excrete less ammonia, it is necessary to organize the collection of feces so that urine is separated from feces. If the collection goes into trays under the cages, a slope and a gutter are made in them, along which urine is drained into a separate container. If waste is collected through the gutters into the pit (if there are large numbers of rabbits), the ditches should be made so that urine seeps into the lower, mesh-separated gutter. This is a rather difficult task, since one part is separated from the other with a grid, and it is often clogged. To keep everything in working order, you have to often clean it.

  

  The construction of a rabbitry is a serious scale

The rate of weight gain and the density of the fur is also influenced by the illumination of the rabbitry and the duration of daylight hours. Rabbits are most active at dusk and at night. Bright lighting is undesirable for them. Adequate illumination level is 50-70 lux for adults, 25-30 lux for fattening young animals. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so backlighting is mandatory in winter, but dim. So that when servicing the rabbitry it is more comfortable in terms of lighting, several additional lamps are installed above the cages, but they are turned on the second switch (or the second key). Another option is to install a brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead of a conventional switch, allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.

Rabbit cages

The easiest way to keep rabbits is in outdoor canopy cages. But this option is available in regions with more or less mild winters. Often this type of maintenance is practiced at the beginning of the rabbit breeder's "career", but gradually they come to the conclusion that the rabbitry is necessary. It's just that over the winter, the livestock often decreases greatly, the feed consumption increases much, and the weight gain is very small. It turns out that it is more profitable to build a rabbitry and heat it.

Dimensions and construction of rabbit cages

Rabbit cages vary by breed. The larger the rabbits, the more space they require. On average, the height of the cage is 500-700 mm, the roof can be sloped back, then the height at the back is 50-100 mm less. The depth of the cage is 50-70 cm. It is more difficult with the width - cages are made for males and females different sizes... In the cages for rabbits, it is advisable to fence off the mother chamber - a closed small-sized volume in which the rabbit will arrange a nest. Excluding the mother liquor, the length of the cage for males and females is the same - 500-800 cm.

There are several options for the mother liquor device:

• A cube made of boards of a suitable size is placed in spacious cells, in which a hole is made for a passage.
• Immediately, during construction, part of the cell for the mother liquor is fenced off.
• On the sidewalls of the cage, wide removable doors are made. Before the rabbit should have offspring, the doors are removed, the queen cell is hung (reliable fastening is necessary).

The optimal dimensions of the mother liquor are: depth 80 cm, width 60 cm, height 40 cm (or as it turns out according to the dimensions of your cage). It is desirable to make a shelf inside the cell or above the mother liquor. On it, the rabbit will hide from the annoying baby. In this case, she will not trample them accidentally, as happens if there is no shelf.

Cage-hung rabbit broodstock

A hole is made from the mother liquor into the main cell. It should not start at the level with the floor, there should be a sill of at least 5 cm. In the first days, it will keep the babies inside the queen cell.

How to make the floor

Regardless of the type of rabbit keeping, the cage should be dry. Therefore, a continuous floor is made very rarely, it is better to have a crevice, with large gaps or from a metal mesh with a small cell. If the floor is made solid (from a piece of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB), then it is made inclined towards the back wall (you can also towards the front, but this is less convenient). In the back of the floor, a grate or net is nailed through which urine is poured out, excrement falls out.

It is better to double the floor in a rabbit cage - the first level is made of wooden planks or metal grating

It is much better to make a double floor - the first is slatted, the second is solid. For a slatted floor, take wooden planks 20-25 mm wide, stuff them with a gap of 15 mm. All waste, both liquid and solid, normally falls through such gaps. Rigid mesh with thick wire and small meshes can be used instead of slats.

Mesh floor made of galvanized wire - also performed well

The lower level of the floor - the pallet - is usually made of galvanized iron, preferably from a single piece. In this case, a slope is formed (usually in the center of the cell or between two adjacent ones), and in the center - a groove. The height of the pallet is 25-35 mm. Less is inconvenient, more is unnecessary.

To make the metal last longer, it can be treated with drying oil. If it is necessary to splicate pieces, make the connection so that everything flows down, and it is advisable to coat it with bituminous mastic so that no sewage flows onto the floor of the rabbitry.

Rabbit cages are queen cells from the sides. The lower level of the floor is made of galvanized steel, a trough for urine drainage and easy cleaning is formed

In this case, the lower tier of the floor must be movable so that it can be pulled out and washed / cleaned. For this, corners are packed, on which a sheet of metal rides, like on a sled.

It is not necessary to make the lower tier of the floor for each cell. It can be common for two or three located side by side. If these are cages for rabbits, usually a common tray for two cages is obtained - on the sides of the queen cells. If the cages of young animals or males are located in a row, three cages can also be combined.

Sometimes flat slate is used as the lower floor. But in this case, it is possible to organize the drain only backward or forward and only into the gutter that goes along the cell - the sheet cannot be bent in any way.

Doors

Doors are made mainly with a mesh. A frame is knocked down from the bar, onto which the mesh is pulled. Tighten nails or self-tapping screws so that their points do not stick out inside the cage. It is better to stuff the net so that it is "flush" from the side of the cage. So there is less chance that rabbits will gnaw through the door. Those who are more friendly with welding, cook the frame from a small corner, pull the eraser on steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter and this wire is welded to the door.

A large door is more convenient in size - it will be more convenient for you to serve the cage. Constipations are ordinary hooks or latches, and in the old fashioned way they make a piece of a bar that rotates on a nail nailed in its middle. But this kind of constipation is very unreliable.

One of the easiest rabbit cage constipation options

If carpentry is not your forte, to make the door stiffer, you can fill a block obliquely. He will not let the door warp (as in the photo above). Note that the block is stuffed on the outside so rabbits cannot chew on it.

Roof

You can cover rabbit cages with any inexpensive material. But it must be remembered that overheating and hypothermia are destructive for rabbits. Therefore, simply throwing a piece of metal or any material based on it will not work. It is better to use a material with low thermal conductivity. For example, you can fill plywood (moisture resistant, construction), OSB and any other similar material.

If the cages are on the street, without a canopy, on sheet material it is required to lay something to protect from precipitation. In more northerly areas or when installing the cage in the shade, roofing material or more modern waterproofing material can be laid. It can be glued to bituminous mastic instead of being welded.

Another option is to lay slate, better - wave. Moreover, it is better to raise it above the cage by 15-25 cm. This will create an air gap, it will not be hot in the cage. And the resulting gap can be used for drying / grazing the grass. Dried in the shade, it retains more nutrients.

Sennik, drinkers, feeders

For rabbits, not so much equipment is needed - a sennik, feeders for bulk small feed, drinkers. The design of drinking bowls should be such that it can be easily removed - they must be washed, water changed. For these purposes, they usually adapt some kind of trays, for which they make a "seat" from a strip of metal, fixed on the door (the most convenient option) or on the wall, close to the door.

There is one very good version of the "cheap and cheerful" drinker. Scrap is used as a "cup holder" sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Cutting height - 80-100 mm. Inside this ring is inserted a cut 2 liter plastic bottle... The bottle is cut flush with the "glass holder", only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long remains so that the glass can be easily pulled out.

Senniks are made either between two cages, beveling adjacent walls in the form of a V. This method is more convenient when building cages for rabbits (there are several photos above). The second option for the cages of males and young animals - one of the walls (or part of the wall) is made lattice, a piece of plywood, OSB, a shield knocked out of planks, etc. is attached to it on hinges. They fix it in the desired position with a hook, rope, wire.

In principle, if there is not enough space on the side, such a sennik can be made in the front, on the door. It's just that on the door, they often nail / make a feeder in addition to the drinker.

Feeders are made from what can. Someone has plastic or metal trays attached, someone knocks them out of wood, they even try to make it out of drywall. An option seemed interesting - an attached piece of a profile for drywall of a large section (pictured below).

You can make a feeder out of wood, but the edges must be covered with tin.

If you have some skills in tin work, you can make a feeder from galvanized sheet.

To get rid of the dusty part of the feed, several small holes are made in the bottom of the trough.

What materials to make the frame and walls

The frame for the cages in the rabbitry is made from a wooden bar or from a supporting (wall) galvanized profile for drywall; welded frames from a metal pipe are quite rare. They are the most reliable, but also the most difficult. More suitable for stationary installation in a rabbitry.

The lightest cells are obtained from the profile, but the choice of materials is very limited - heavy ones cannot be used. When using a bar, there are no questions about the weight of the material, but there is a problem - rabbits gnaw wood. Therefore, they try to make cells so that there are fewer protruding corners - they cannot gnaw flat surfaces.

As you saw in the photo, the walls of rabbit cages are made from different materials - plywood, OSB, wooden boards and planks. Often they use who has what. The most problematic areas are covered with tin or a mesh is pulled from above - this also does not provide an opportunity to gnaw wood. There are cages that are almost entirely made of mesh. Young animals for fattening feel good in them.

Photo report on the production of a cage in a rabbitry from a galvanized profile

This option is suitable for those regions where timber is expensive or for those who have a lot of profile remnants after construction / renovation. When making cages, the dimensions are adjusted to the existing molding - small deviations in one direction or the other are permissible, but rabbits should be spacious in the cage.

This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two sections. The main part is 55 * 75 * 55 cm, the mother cell is 35 * 55 * 30 cm. There is a reinforced profile on the racks, the usual work on the crossbars - as usual with drywall - fix the pieces with self-tapping screws with a screw (fleas).

The floor in the main part is made of a bar 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide. The planks are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to screw in the self-tapping screws so that they can be easily unscrewed - if (or rather, when) they gnaw the bar, it will be easy to replace it with a new one.

In the mother liquor, the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part, and fill the gap with insulation - even expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cold snap, the babies will not freeze - their mother usually warms them from above. If the bottom is warm at the same time, they will not get sick.

The height of the mother cell is 20 cm below the main cell. From the inside, in the cage, you get a shelf on which the rabbit will flee from the annoying baby.

To prevent gnawing at the outer joints of plywood, we close them with perforated metal corners. You just need to look for those that are thicker. We cut the edges of the corners at 45 ° so that they do not bulge or stick out.

Photo of rabbit cages for installation in a rabbitry and outdoors

Cages in the rabbitry are rarely placed in three tiers - the lower ones are difficult to maintain

Wire walls, pipe frame. Only the back wall is deaf - so that there are no drafts

Experienced rabbit breeders know very well how important it is that rabbit cages are of the correct design and are made of high quality and safe material. Since it is these factors that determine their ability to reproduce. The cage can be purchased ready-made or made by hand. The last option preferable, since during construction, the breed and the number of animals placed in it are taken into account.

Required materials and cage construction

Regardless of what type of nursery will be built, they all have the same basis:

• frame;
• walls;
• ceiling;
• doors.

A rabbit cage is made of wood or mesh, but never iron. In the heat, it will become very hot, and in the frost, animals can freeze to it.

The frame is built from thick beams, while the length of the legs should be at least 35 cm.If the nursery is standing outside, it is better to make them even higher - from 70 to 100 cm.In addition, a cage of this height is much more convenient to maintain, and the animals will be protected from predators. Walls are made of plywood, planks or mesh. For the floor in the feeders, slats or a net are used, since waste spills out well through them. The roof is made from the same materials as the walls. If the industrial rabbit cage is to be installed outdoors, additional roofing will be required to protect it from precipitation.

Every detail in the nursery must be smooth and safe, with no splinters or sharp ends at the net so that the animals cannot get hurt.

Types of cages for rabbits

Nurseries differ among themselves by the type of construction:

• ordinary with or without a mother liquor;
• I.N. Mikhailova;
• N.I. Zolotukhina;
• with an aviary for walking.

In the first version, the cage has high legs and two separate feeding places and nests. They are separated from each other by a solid partition with a manhole. The door to the nest is made of solid wood, and to the feeding area from a frame with a net. If there is free space, then an open-air cage is added to the cage. You can enter it through the back wall, or arrange it from below under the housing, as in the photo below.

Often, nurseries with an aviary are used for mating, since active movement not only positively affects the health of rabbits, but also improves their reproductive abilities.

Mikhailov's industrial cells are considered the most complex and advanced, they look like small farms. They provide ventilation, shelves, heating of the mother liquor and drinking bowls, as well as a unique waste disposal system - everything is poured into one container.

Below is a photo of a drawing of Mikhailov's cage for rabbits, according to which you can make it yourself.

N.I.'s cell Zolotukhina

The main difference between the nurseries of this author from others is that instead of a net or slats for the floor, they use plywood or flat slate, and there is also no pallet. The floor is installed with a slight slope. A mesh is mounted along the back wall 10-20 cm wide. Through it, feces and urine are removed, especially since in most cases rabbits relieve themselves at the back wall.

The feeders are used tilting, in order to clean them, it is enough to tilt it towards you, and not to remove it completely from the cage. It is imperative to divide it in half with a net so that the rabbits cannot climb through.

Zolotukhin also proposes not to equip the mother house for summer time. It is enough just to fence off a place of the required size with a board with a width of up to 20 cm, and put it in the corner of the hay. The rabbit will make a nest for herself. Thanks to this method of growing, living conditions in a rabbit cage are closest to natural conditions. As a result, rabbits are born less susceptible to infectious diseases. As soon as they grow up, the board is removed, as a result there is more room for walking. In winter, instead of a board, it is necessary to install a house for a rabbit with a litter.

In the video below, Zolotukhin talks about the principle of action of cages for rabbits, made with his own hands according to the method he invented.

To build cells according to the Zolotukhin method, you do not need to possess certain skills and expensive building materials. Mesh, planks, flat slate or plywood and sheet metal are sufficient. The frame, nest doors and partitions are made of wood. Slate or plywood floor and mesh. Also, the net is used for doors in the feeders. Bars and other protruding wooden places are lined with sheet metal so that the rabbits do not gnaw on them. A lot of light and drafts should not get into the nest, so the door is made solid, and not made of mesh. At the edge of the floor in the mother liquor, a threshold with a height of at least 10 cm is nailed so that the rabbits cannot fall out when the door opens.

The back wall of the upper tier is made straight, and the lower ones are inclined so that waste from the upper one does not fall into other cells, but rolls outward along the wall.

Stages of creating a rabbit cage

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a do-it-yourself rabbit cage with a built-in queen cell and feed bins:

1. The roof of the cage and a sliding door with a handle for feeders are mounted.
2. Doors with a mesh and solid doors for nests, as well as latches for them, are fixed to the frame.
3. If the nursery will be on the street, then an additional waterproof roof should be made. For this, a frame made of slats is already nailed to the existing roof, and roofing material, for example, slate, is fixed to it. Do not forget about the slope, so if the height of the nursery in front is 70 cm, then at the rear wall it should be 60 cm. This is necessary to drain precipitation from the roof.

Before you start making a rabbit cage, you need to draw up detailed dimensional drawings.

The proposed option is convenient in that it has a large-capacity feeding hopper. It holds at least 6 kg of feed. Also, this design allows you to install additional tiers. The main thing is to put a pallet between them for collecting waste or an inclined surface along which they will roll into the container. But do not make too many tiers, as the feed is poured from above.

The mesh size for rabbit cages should not be more than 2x2 cm, otherwise they may fall through and get stuck.

Before you start making a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you should decide on a place to install the nursery. It must be protected from strong winds. It is undesirable to set up a nursery on the south side, since in summer the animals will be under the heat of the sun all day. Also, the breed of rabbits affects the size of the cage, some of them are noticeably larger than others. Optimal size cages for rabbits of different colors - 150x70x70 cm. It varies depending on the number of animals. It is better to make the roof removable, so it will be much more convenient to disinfect the cage.

If the rabbits will live in the nursery in winter, then the floor is better made of wood. The lower part is made solid in the form of a pallet, therefore it must be pulled out. And on top of it is installed a floor of rails filled with a step of 1.5 cm. Feeders and drinkers are best made removable, so that it is easier to clean them. In order to prevent the offspring from freezing in winter, the walls should be additionally insulated with any thermal insulation, for example, with foam. The insulation must be sealed in a foil so that it does not draw in water. In the uterine compartment, you can lay a heating system with a warm floor or a heating pad.

For dwarf and decorative rabbits, other nurseries are made, and always with an aviary. A cage for such rabbits is most often built with their own hands in the form of a house, with many ladders and shelves. If the pet will live in the house, then it is best to purchase a ready-made version, since they have an attractive appearance.

Step-by-step instructions for building a cage for rabbits - video

Many livestock farms and private entrepreneurs are increasingly paying attention to raising rabbits. Breeding these furry animals is a pretty profitable activity. So to speak, practically waste-free, since rabbit droppings are highly valued in agriculture like fertilizer.

Types of cages for rabbits

The one-section version of the cage is a spacious enclosure with doors, equipped with drinkers and feeders. The room is designed for one individual or, if the section is large, for walking young animals. The one-section rabbit cage is convenient for breeding animals in small quantities for their needs.

Did you know? Rabbits are considered to be silent, but these animals often use different sounds to explain their condition. A contented, pacified rabbit makes purring sounds, pleasure can be indicated by short clicks, aggression can be signaled by growling or grunting, fear is indicated by tapping teeth, and if the fluffy one is screaming, then it hurts.

The cages, consisting of two sections, are separated by a V-shaped mesh feeder. In such a rabbit house, a pair of animals can be kept by opening the flap between the sections during the planned mating.

The cages, consisting of three sections, allow you to keep three individuals (a male and two females), there are opening valves between the sections. If necessary, one of the females can be admitted to the male living in the central section. After communication & - divide again.

Cage type state farm "Klenovo - Chegodaevo"

The construction of these cages is 240 cm long and 65 cm wide. The material for making the floor in such cages is wood, solid sheet or slatted. Feeders and drinkers are located inside the cages on the floor. There are insert boxes that are used as queen cells with removable feeders and bowls for babies.

Important! Little rabbits are gradually accustomed to adult food. Babies are rubbed with carrots, steamed grain and given small soft hay.

A convenient design of a two-tier mini-farm was developed and implemented by I. N. Mikhailov. There are two floors of cages on the support frame. The roof is made of translucent materials.

The device of feeders and drinkers allows you to provide animals with food and water for a week. This two-tiered rabbit cage arrangement is convenient for those who cannot devote time to animals on a daily basis.

Cells designed by Zolotukhin

Zolotukhin's design is a three-tier aviary, two sections per tier. The upper tiers are shifted to the width of the grid of the lower floor obliquely, by a kind of projection of the plywood floor or from a flat sheet of slate.

Stationary mother liquor is not provided: for a female with a litter, a portable burrow is inserted for the winter. In the summer, the female with the rabbits is located in the hay, but is separated by a partition from the other animals.

The trough-shaped feeder is inserted into the door frame, which allows feeding the feed without opening the door.

Does it make sense to purchase an industrial cage

For large-scale rabbit breeding, factory-made rabbit cages will save time on making cages yourself. Such cages have many advantages: a clear design, equipping with convenient drinkers and feeders, trays for feces, nests for individual individuals.

In the factory nets, there are convenient queen cells for females with offspring. Drawings of rabbits are constantly being improved, designs are supplemented with innovative ideas, more convenient and rational designs are invented for both the cages themselves and various adaptations for the life of animals.

Lack of factory cells in frequent marriage in the production of any details of the house, mismatch of the size of the cell with its future location.

On the other hand, when making cages for domestic rabbits by yourself, the sizes of the cages are commensurate with the space of their further location. Depending on the number of animals, the type of cage, the placement of partitions, drinkers, and feeders are selected.

There is a possibility of choosing a material that is more convenient for you in the manufacture of both the whole cage and the pallet, feeders and other things.

Making a cage with your own hands

Before making housing for animals, it is necessary to determine the size of the premises: for adult males, females and cubs, for each individual of rabbits the footage required for normal development and maximum convenience is determined.

Professionals advise to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe flock for rabbits so that there is at least 0.12 square meters per adult. It is advisable to immediately foresee all the nuances: partitions, the location of drinkers and feeders, the location of the pallets.

Three-tiered rabbit cages will be optimal for a large number of animals, and a nursery for young animals and separate sections for males and females will easily fit in the project drawings.

The advantage of such sheds is in significant space savings, in the ability to install the structure on the street and in the utility room.

Interesting!Newborn rabbits are naked and blind, and already on the twentieth day of life they can feed on their own.

Choosing a place for cells

It doesn't matter what design you have in mind: small rabbit cages or three-tiered sheds, the main thing is the right choice of location.

The best place for an aviary would be a slightly shaded area, such as a garden among trees. In this case, the animals will be protected from drafts and overheating.

Professional rabbit breeders advise keeping fluffy pets in outdoor conditions: animals develop immunity to diseases, improve the quality of wool, as well as reproductive function and endurance of the offspring.

A good option is at the wall of a large utility room with a protruding visor, which will create additional protection from precipitation and direct sunlight. For outdoor maintenance, take care of the cages' insulation in winter.

Two-story rabbit cages can also be located indoors. In this case, carefully consider the disposal of waste products: animals should not suffocate from the smell of their own feces.

Dimension and drawing

The size of the proposed premises depends on the breed of animals and their number (take into account the offspring). Average rooms have the following dimensions:

• length - 120-150 cm;
• width - 60-80 cm;
• wall height - 35-50 cm.

For juveniles, the length can be reduced to one meter. When building bunk rabbits, the second floor has the same dimensions, the difference will be if you choose the Zolotukhin design.

When developing the drawing, take into account the houses for females with offspring and premises for young animals, think over the location of the feeders and drinkers, the convenience for you when cleaning the cages, partitions that open for mating.

Think about how to insulate an outdoor animal enclosure. You might like the idea of \u200b\u200badding a mesh enclosure to the main house.

Required tools and materials

For the construction of cells, it is better to use natural materials for the main parts of the room: wooden blocks, boards and slats, plywood sheets.

For the roof of the houses, it is advisable to use a slate base, not metal. Sheet metal heats up quickly, as well as freezes in winter.

For individual parts you will need: galvanized mesh, door hinges, door hooks and latches. Tools and small parts:

• scissors for metal;
• self-tapping screws and screwdriver;
• nails and hammer;
• pliers;
• bulgarian, saw;
• tape measure, pencil and level.

Attention! The construction of street cages must be secure against the penetration of predators: foxes, dogs or rats.

Building a cage: step by step instructions

After you have decided on the dimensions, selected the necessary materials and prepared the tools, you can start building. To make the work easier to argue, consider the proposed

Owners of fluffy, adorable rabbits ask themselves, first of all, the question - in what conditions their pets should live.

How to choose a place to install a cage

Let us first dwell on the backyard maintenance of eared animals. There are two options:

• open content (in air);
• placement of cells indoors (for example, in a barn).

To select the location of the cages, you must follow the rules.

• The air humidity should not exceed 60-75% (therefore, the cages are installed in a dry, elevated place, far from water bodies).
• Because the rabbits categorically do not perceive direct sunlight, then the cells should ideally be located among trees that provide shade, or protected by an artificial hedge that scatters direct sunlight.
• Drafts are a common cause of rabbit disease. Therefore, air movement exceeding 30 m / s is undesirable. However, cage ventilation is one of the rules that must be strictly observed. Otherwise, the fumes from the secretions will damage the health of your pets.

In winter, the places where rabbits are kept should be insulated so that the temperature fluctuates in the range of 10-20 C. Particular attention is paid to the warming of queen cells and compartments for rabbits.

If animals are kept indoors, then it should be:

• necessarily plastered,
• well ventilated,
• illuminated in winter no more than 10 hours.

Ideally, an animal cage room should have a full-wall south-facing window.

It is also desirable to arrange the cages in open space in accordance with the cardinal points - facing east.

And one more nuance - the cells must be installed at a height of 0.8-1.0 m from the ground. This will keep the rabbits from being bitten by domestic rodents and will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the cage by the breeder.

The classic version of the cage for keeping rabbits is a construction of the following dimensions:

• 50 * 70 * 30 cm - for young animals;
• 50 * 100 * 30 cm - for rabbits.

The entire space of the cage is divided into a walking room and a deaf cubicle, where rabbits of all ages find refuge in moments of "danger" and bad weather. The length of the walking compartment can vary, but is usually up to 50 cm in length and width. The zakut, beloved by rabbits, is a box 25 cm long and 50 cm wide. It is sheathed tightly, and only a removable door is attached to the front side. Laz, located in the wall adjacent to the walking area, and usually 17 * 17 cm.

The specificity of the structure of the rabbit cage is that a mesh or slatted floor is usually equipped for the free passage of waste into the pallet under the floor.

The height of the front side of the cage is usually 55 cm, and the back wall is 30 cm. That is, the cage assumes a sloping roof, which, in the case of "tiered" placement of cages, will simultaneously be a pallet for higher cages, and therefore it is usually upholstered with galvanized iron.

Materials for making cages

When choosing materials for making cages, it is better to give preference to high-quality and ecological wood. Wooden beams are suitable for building a frame. Plank or plywood works well for wall cladding. Particleboard is unacceptable because it picks up water, swells and crumbles.

To arrange the floor, use a welded mesh with cells of 1.7 * 1.7 cm, or wooden slats up to 3 cm wide. The slats are placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other, for free passage of waste into the pallet. If the distance between the slats is greater than the specified one, or the mesh cells are larger, then this is fraught with fractures of the legs when stuck in large openings. Floor slats can be plastic.

One condition must be strictly observed - the material for the manufacture of cells must be smooth, without traumatic foreign inclusions.

Dimensions and drawings of the rabbit cage

The sizes of the cages for rabbits are directly dependent on:

• rabbit breeds;
• the selected maintenance scheme (mini-farm, battery-type cells, according to Zolotukhin
• etc.);
• standard indicators of the required areas (for example, for rabbits - 0.5-0.7 sq.m.,
• males will need 0.17 square meters, and young animals - 0.12 square meters).

In practice, houses of two connected cells with a size of 100 * 55 cm are often used. In these cells, the uterine compartments adjoin the outer walls of the cage and communicate with the aft compartments by 17 * 17 cm manholes. On the front side of the house there are doors: two solid in the nesting compartments, and two mesh in the walking spaces. Nursery and drinkers are placed between them. Feeders are usually attached to the front of the mesh doors.

Solid wire cage

This type of cage is designed for placement in livestock-type buildings and even in conventional hay barns. The walls and ceiling of the cells are sheathed with a mesh with cells of 2.5-5 cm, the floor is 1.7 * 1.7 cm.

The main advantage of these cages is the simplicity and availability of cleaning and disinfection. All you need to do is a good brush and a propane burner, which will help you easily get rid of unnecessary microorganisms and accumulations of rabbit fluff.

Solid wire cages take up significantly less space, which is also their advantage in farming.

Difficulty building cells

The main problem in making a cage with your own hands is the lack of high-quality and detailed drawings, or the unjustified high cost of licensed options (for example, drawings from Rabbitax).

The second difficulty faced by the home craftsman is the non-standard size of the building materials used. And as a consequence, the need to purchase materials on order. If to this is added the lack of experience in the manufacture of cells, then the item of expenditure on materials is exaggerated.

Novice craftsmen make similar mistakes when building cells:

• saving material leads to crowding, which has a bad effect on the health and reproduction of rabbits;
• the uterine or nesting compartment should be stationary (the cuffs scare the rabbit and can cause the crush of the rabbits).

To reduce stress during jigging, you can use a cage with a stationary enclosure for rabbits, in which a 12 * 12cm hole will not allow the rabbit to constantly be with the rabbits. And the moment of separation of the rabbits will no longer be so stressful.

N.I.'s cells are very popular. Zolotukhina. Their main the difference is the absence of pallets, i.e. solid flat slate floor, and the presence of a mesh only on the back side of the cages, 15-20 cm wide. The staggered arrangement of one cell above another helps to get rid of waste from the "upper floors" to the "lower" ones. A characteristic feature is also the absence of nesting compartments. The rabbit is given the opportunity to build her own mother house from hay. The door feeders are mounted on rotating nails and are easy to clean thanks to their hinged design.

On our site there is an article dedicated to which you will find all practical advice and recommendations from the author, in addition, you can familiarize yourself with the drawings and sizes of cells.

Cells from Tsvetkov

This is a kind of four-apartment building, equipped with a ventilation and sewerage system. There are also mounted queen cells and gravity feeders and drinkers. The hay nursery is upholstered with galvanized mesh and nailed to the frame. All vulnerable parts are reinforced with tin plates. In winter, the divisions for young rabbits and queen cells are heated with conventional medical heating pads. Unusual is the turn of the cell face to the south side.

Rabbitax for beginner rabbit breeders

Cages from Rabbitax are distinguished by their unique decor and environmental friendliness ( their characteristic air flow redirection system). They are mainly intended for large farms... But there are acceptable options, for example, a cage with two compartments. For a novice master, the drawings are still complicated. And the main disadvantage is the high cost of manufacturing.

Author's designs

I would like to note the cages for Mikhailov's rabbits. The main advantage of mini-farms is their compactness (the ability to keep 25 individuals on an area of \u200b\u200b25 square meters, taking into account the distance between the houses of 70 cm). An undoubted advantage is also the automation of waste collection in a sealed container. A significant drawback of Mikhailov's cells can be called expensive materials for construction and the undoubted professionalism of the performer.

The design of E. Ovdienko attracts attention. Its characteristic difference is a special gate that closes the four-tier structure, which can accommodate 24 cells, from the wind and weather vagaries.

DIY cage for decorative rabbits

Decorative eared creatures can also perfectly exist in a DIY cage. For simple solution you need to decide on the question - how often your pet is supposed to walk in an open space. If the rabbit walks for at least 3 hours a day, then a cage size of 70 * 40 cm is sufficient. If your pet will spend most of the time "at home", then the size of the cage should be 100 * 50 cm. Otherwise, the same building rules should be followed cages as for farm rabbits.

Of all the above cages for rabbits, a beginner master will be able to choose the best option for himself, combining simplicity of execution, convenience of maintenance and an acceptable cost price.

If you decide to start decorative rabbit we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the same, no less important value is and.

See also the video on how to make a cage with your own hands.